Havasu Canyon, Havasu Falls, and Mooney Falls

In 2001, we backpacked into Havasu Canyon at the western end of the Grand Canyon, lands which belong to the Havasupai Indian tribe. The Havasupai (translation means "the people of the blue-green water") occupy a reservation of 185,000 acres, predominantly the Havasu Canyon and its blue-green Havasu Creek. Approximately 650 enrolled tribal members comprise the tribe (the smallest tribe in America) and all speak their native language, Havasupai, which has been a written language for only about 30 years. Most live in the village of Supai, eight miles down from the rim, with a dusty trail providing the sole land access. The tribe has occupied the canyon for over 800 years, but when miners found these lands in the 1800s, the tribe's lands were drastically reduced in size. In 1975 Congress returned most of the land to the tribe.

Access is possible only by foot, horse, or helicopter. Guarding the people of Supai is the stone monument Wigleeva, a double tower of Supai Sandstone overlooking the village and protecting its occupants. Four waterfalls below the village carry Havasu Creek to the Colorado River, another 9 miles below the village.

At the start, Steve pauses at a vista point displaying the glorious beauty of the Grand Canyon as far as you can see...



The first mile or so is a series of switchbacks descending 1000 feet and the remaining seven miles descend another 900 feet. No water is available, so carry plenty. If you would rather hike without your gear, you can pay to have your gear taken down and up by horseback, and even hire a horse to ride both ways. You also can hire Havasupai guides to take you to the waterfalls located miles below the village. Here you see Scott and Steve, and behind them Len and Marlene, as we backpack the 8 miles into the canyon...



...to the home of the Supai people, comprised of 136 houses, a café, a general store, a tourist office, a post office, a school, a hotel, an LDS chapel, and a small Christian church among other buildings.



Navajo Falls is the first of the four waterfalls you reach after about a 1.5 mile hike down from Supai Village. This waterfall is 75 feet tall and comes down in several distinct falls. The foliage is so thick here that good views of the falls are obscured, though a trail can be followed down to creek level and there are some pools you can go in at the base of the falls. Navajo Falls is named after a 19th century Havasupai tribal chief who as a child was kidnapped and raised by Navajo Indians. Years later he learned of his identity and returned to his home.

Havasu Falls, about 2 miles down the canyon below the village, is about 120 feet tall, dropping into the magnificent blue-green pool which beckons visitors to linger on the shore and play in the constant 70 degree water.




Water is contained in the pools by naturally occurring travertine dams formed by the high concentration of limestone in the water which precipitates out. Though heavy rains and flooding in 1992 and 1995 washed out many of the travertine dams, many remain and are being rebuilt by nature. If you wear proper footwear (such as Tevas), you can safely walk across the dams to access other pools, as I am doing here...



...or you can simply swim over to any area you wish to explore as seen below with Scott, Len, Marlene, and Steve...



The tranquility of this place drew us back the second day and we spent the better part of the day here, in and out of the water, but often simply staring at the beauty, mesmerized by the pounding of the falls, the splatter of the spray, the magnificence of the pool below the falls, and the feeling of peace and serenity permeating the oasis...



This is truly one of most awesome places I've ever been at, and even after 5 hours, it was difficult to leave and return to Supai. This is the most popular place, so expect other people to be there.

Mooney Falls, another mile down the canyon, is the tallest at 196 feet (29 feet taller than Niagara Falls) and it is also the hardest to reach the base of. Mooney was a miner who died here in 1880. Several versions exist regarding his death, but revolve around the fact that he attempted to descend by rope, which either jammed and ultimately frayed and broke, or was too short causing him to fall to his death. The Havasupai call this falls "the Mother of the Waters."

At the top are several warning signs that try to dissuade you from continuing, and as you initially enter the Supai Village and pay your entrance fee, you will sign a waiver for accidents incurred in the canyon. Because descending to the base of the falls (without duplicating Mooney's demise) requires traversing 2 nearly vertical tunnels, between which you enjoy this view of the falls...



...and then climbing down with the assistance of chains attached to steel stakes hammered into the rock face. Several of the chains have detached from the pitons and flap about, and of course, spray from the waterfall make the rocks and chains wet. Also, everything is coated with a layer of red dust from the redwall limestone in this area. However, if care is exercised, this appears a much more difficult operation than it actually is, and successfully accomplishing it is exhilarating! I suggest you follow the trail from the top, go through the tunnels, and begin going down the first section of chains. After you see what the remainder of the "path" is like, you can decide for yourself whether you wish to descend all the way.








After the involved descent, the majesty of the area again bid you to relax and linger. Below shows Chuck, Steve, and Scott with the pool and Mooney Falls in the background.


Two miles farther downstream is the smallest of the falls, Beaver Falls, and four miles beyond that is the Colorado River. The trail below Mooney Falls becomes more difficult and crosses the creek 20 times, and as you get farther downstream, you will begin meeting people coming upriver from raft trips through the Grand Canyon.

More Havasu photos